Monday, December 26, 2011

From Booming Bass to Precision Sound Quality, Aftermarket Car Audio Does It All!

Whether you prefer loud hip-hop or top-quality sound for your classical music, Oem car audio tool just doesn't cut it. No matter what your listening taste, your local movable electronics shop can set you up with a customized car stereo system!

From Booming Bass to Precision Sound Quality, Aftermarket Car Audio Does It All!

If you think that an aftermarket car stereo system is just for drivers that like to rattle windows as they cruise by, then think again! The car audio enterprise caters to all types of listening tastes. Sure, most car electronics shops can install subwoofers that will make the whole neighborhood shake, but they can also install top-of-the-line precision component systems for crisp, clear sound quality. No matter what your listening preferences, your local car audio shop can set you up with the system that's right for you.

The uncomplicated truth is that most car manufacturers include so-so Oem car audio tool with even high-end vehicles. So if you want to enjoy capability sound, your best bet is an aftermarket system. These component car audio video systems can be fully customized to suit not only your listening style but will also consolidate varied input options with your vehicle's manufacture and look. From satellite radio receivers to iPod integration docks to all-in-one GPS/Cd/radio decks, your local movable electronics shop can set you up with the best car stereo deck and sound input options for your ride. And that's just a handful of the features ready for your deck. When it comes to speakers, woofers, tweeters, amps, and more, the possibilities are almost unlimited!

For the best car audio caress and a sound system that's ideal for your needs, select a car electronics shop that will work intimately with you throughout the whole process. From listening to your exact desires for sound and capability to helping you settle on the movable audio components themselves to providing precision installation workmanship, these professionals can make getting the sound you've all the time wanted uncomplicated and hassle-free.

From Booming Bass to Precision Sound Quality, Aftermarket Car Audio Does It All!

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Sunday, December 25, 2011

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Saturday, December 24, 2011

Homemade Projector Screen - The Principle & How to Diy

Projector screens are commonly divided into two types base on their functionalities: reflection projector screen and transmission projector screen. It can be also divided into soft and hard screen base on the materials they are made from.

Homemade Projector Screen - The Principle & How to Diy

Home theater commonly uses soft reflection screen. My brother-in-law originally wanted to buy a ¥1000 (~0) so-called "import screen", but a friend of his who sells projector screens told him that it is hard nowadays (in China) to distinguish the genuineness of an import screen, it is hard even for himself. Some of them that are labeled with 'import' or 'joint capital' were indubitably manufactured somewhere in the south of China. He felt that he'd rather to buy a ¥300 domestically manufactured screen with good feelings than buy this kind of "import screen". What this friend said makes perfect sense. But after doing some research, my brother-in-law found that all screens on the local store are made from high gain Bolivian bead that is used for projecting newspaper clips, they are simply not suitable for video frequency.

Theoretically speaking, a white wall with one flat side indubitably is the best "screen". Because its gain is 1, meaning that the light projected can be wholly reflected out, which is an ideal state of being "no absorption, no gain". Unfortunately, for the purpose of fascinating and proliferating the sound wave, he already made the wall a background wall with sound-absorbing material and plywood installed. Development it impossible to serve as a "projector screen', he had to find another solution.

You might be wondering at this point: why do habitancy still bother purchasing costly screens if we can all use white walls?

Well, there are always benefits and advantages of using a expert screen: convenient, artistically beautiful and dignified, good screen can also make up the scantness of a projector and improve visual effect. Among the costly screens, one type is "gray screen" (cost about ¥15,000, roughly 00). This kind of screen probably was originally designed for liquid crystal projectors. The biggest problem with liquid crystal projector is that the color appears dark and grey, insufficiently calm. This is its "congenital defect" that is caused by its liquid crystal board and path of rays.

Regarding gray screen, we all know that gray is merely a lighter black, and black absorbs all illustrated light. Gray can only partially dispell illustrated light, it is like radiance of the photo is reduced. If you have used any photo processing software's "brightness / divergence gradient" option, you should indubitably have noticed such phenomenon that reducing radiance is equivalent to expanding divergence gradient? Same concept, since the radiance has been reduced, it in turn increased its divergence gradient. The black follow gets improved due to the bigger contrast. We can also touch the same follow when we look out through the sunshade glass of our car. In fact, there are many ways to just cut the brightness, you don't have to use gray screen. There are magazines recommending putting the light gray filter of a photographic camera to the projection lens, the principle is the same. You can even use more simpler method, namely you need to aDJust the projector's production radiance or growth the divergence gradient. No need to spend a cent, you may accomplish the similar effect, but the facility is that showroom must be dark enough.

Back to the lowest line, if a gray projector screen cost you 00, undoubtedly it is not just because the screen color is changed from white to gray. Speaking from the visual principle, I'm afraid there's a lot more behind. I'm guessing probably inescapable chemical compositions have been added to the material of the screen that changed the reflection or absorption intensity of different wavelength of light, thus changed the luster and the divergence gradient of the entire image, that, makes up the inborn flaw of liquid crystal board after all. In expanding to this, what other tricks do you think they can play? It doesn't seem to be inherent with the meager knowledge of physics that I have.

It sounds more like it to throw in a ¥150,000 screen if your projector cost you ¥15,000. But adding a ¥15,000 screen to a ¥15,000 projector doesn't make much sense at all. If I have to buy a ¥15,000 screen, then it would simply work good if I put the money together and buy a ¥30,000 higher level projector to accomplish good follow without any extra effort. A ¥15,000 screen is a crazy price to my brother-in-law (imagine his monthly revenue is merely ¥3000). Also if he buys a name brand Japanese gray screen, then he indubitably spend most of the money to pay for the labor which he personally doesn't feel comfortable.

The ideal screen for the Dlp projector that my brother-in-law purchased should be like a white wall, just let the project light reflected wholly without any "reservation". He figured that he indubitably didn't need such high-priced screen. So he ultimately decided to make one on his own.

Exactly how did he do it? You may not believe how straightforward and inexpensive it indubitably was! He spent a bit over ¥10 (about .50) in a home decorating store on a self-adhesive pure white matted formica Pvc panel with dim grains, cut the right size, pasted to his traditional background wall, that is it, flat and smooth! With such Pvc screen, he doesn't need to worry about the 'curl-up' phenomenon that may occur to a regular projector screen after around 12 years of use, he also doesn't need to worry that it would turn yellow one day due to natural oxidation. But remember it requires some pasting techniques to make it work perfectly for you. The result? Great!

Here are join of self-made projector screen photos from my brother-in-law as 'evidence':

http://www.news-blogs.com/_images/entertainment/diy_screen.jpg

http://www.news-blogs.com/_images/entertainment/diy_screen2.jpg

Note: You may freely republish this recipe as long as author bio and active hyperlinks are kept intact. Thank you.

Homemade Projector Screen - The Principle & How to Diy

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Friday, December 23, 2011

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Thursday, December 22, 2011

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Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Rv Converters

Just when I thought we thoroughly covered Rv electrical systems I get another good quiz, about something I failed to discuss in my old articles. I received one of these good questions the other day and thought there would be many other Rvers who would like to hear the answer.

Rv Converters

Question: In one of your old articles you list the Rv converter as drawing 5 amps. Since, I believe, the converter is operating any time you plug into a 120 volt Ac theory (30 Amp), does this mean that in reality you only have 25 amps to work with (30 minus 5 = 25, and not inspecting clock draws, etc.)? I am developing an galvanic amp chart to hang inside a cabinet and I need to conclude this quiz, as this would make a necessary difference.

First of all let's talk briefly about what your Rv converter does. When you plug your Rv into an electrical source, or when you use the onboard generator, the converters job is to cut 120 volts Ac down to 12 volt Dc to provide power to all of the 12 volt appliances and accessories in the Rv. If you weren't plugged into an electrical source your Rv battery(s) would provide the power to all of the 12 volt appliances and accessories in the Rv. The converter basically prevents your Rv battery(s) from draining when you're plugged in.

There are two types of amperage draw about your Rv. The Ac amps we are using and the Dc amps we are using. I'll try to explain. When you plug your Rv into an electrical source and use 120 volt appliances like the roof air conditioner, the microwave and a Tv you are drawing amps from the available provide at the campground, commonly 30 or 50 amps depending on your Rv electrical theory and the electrical provide you are plugged into. When you're plugged into an electrical source and you use Dc appliances and accessories like fans, lights, pumps or the Tv antenna booster you are drawing amps from the converter. Are you more confused now than when we started? Let's try wording this a small different.

Let's say you plug your Rv into a 30 amp electrical provide and you only use 120 volt appliances. You're using available amps from the 30 amp electrical provide for anyone 120 volt appliances are running, but the converter is drawing practically 0 amps because you're not using any Dc accessories. It will use a small number for items like the Lp gas leak detector, clocks or maybe an aisle light, but not adequate to nothing else but work on the amperage you are plugged into.

Your Rv converter is rated for a safe bet amperage i.e. 30 amps, 45 amps, 55 amps. In other words a 45 amp converter is capable of running 45 amps worth of 12 volt appliances in the Rv. When your Rv converter is working at its maximum capacity, which in this case is producing 45 amps for 12 volt appliances and accessories, it is drawing around 5 amps out of the 30 amps available from the campground electrical supply.

Let's say you're plugged in and you're using a combine of 12 volt overhead lights (2 amps) and a ceiling fan (4 amps). In this case your converter is drawing very small from the campgrounds 30 amp electrical supply. In another scenario let's say you're using a lot of 12 volt overhead lights (8 amps), you're running the furnace fan (11 amps), water pump (4 amps), 12-volt television (5 amps), range hood fan (2.5 amps), and the battery is being charged by the converter charger (3 amps). Now, when the converter is running close to its full capacity it draws the full 5 amps from the campgrounds 30 amps, leaving you with 25 amps for other 120 volt appliances and accessories. As you can see it's unlikely that all of this would be happening at one time. The bottom line is the converter amperage draw will fluctuate depending on the 12 volt quiz, located on it.

Another quiz, I was asked was; I know my converter is also a battery charger so why won't it bring my discharged batteries back to a full charge? Rv converters do provide a payment to your Rv house batteries, but only a small measure of the converters amperage rating is used for this. commonly 3 to 5 amps, which are not nearly adequate to payment batteries that are discharged.

The converter battery charger is designed to keep the house batteries topped off with this trickle charge. another problem with older Rv converters is they payment at a fixed voltage in the range of 13.5 volts. If your batteries are fully charged this can be too much for a float payment and over time it will deplete the water level in the batteries cells. This is why it's foremost to check the water level in your batteries on a quarterly basis, especially when you leave the Rv plugged in for extended periods of time. You need a three stage charger that can provide a bulk payment then an absorption payment and finally a float charge. Newer Rv converters on the shop are capable of charging the batteries this way.

Now, to help you out with your amp chart I am together with some typical amperage draws for appliances and accessories commonly used in Rv's. Keep in mind I'm not an scholar on electricity by any stretch of the imagination. This is just a basic guide to sustain you in how many amps you are using at any given time. If you need to know exact amperage ratings you can check the data plate on any motors, appliances or electronic tool you are using. If you can't search a data plate with this information check the appliance or electronic tool owner's manual. This information might provide wattage requirements rather than amps. Here are a combine of uncomplicated formulas to help you turn some tasteless electrical terms.

Wattage % Volts = Amps
Amps X Volts = Wattage

One other thing to keep in mind is many Rv appliances require more amps to start the appliance than they do to run the appliance. A roof air conditioner can draw 16 amps to start, but may only use 13 amps once it is running.

120 Volt Ac Amp Ratings:

Appliance or Electronic tool Estimated Amps

Air Conditioner (X number of A/C) 12-16 Amps

Blender 5-6 Amps

Coffee Maker 5-8 Amps

Compact Disc Player 1 Amp

Computer (Laptop) 2-3 Amps

Converter 1-5 Amps

Crock Pot 1-2 Amps

Curling Iron

Rv Converters

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